FishFinger said:
Spinner fabrication is a fun and productive art, great to see your "hooked".
I can't see for sure (do to my phones picture resolution) are you using bearing beads below the clevises?
Yep, a bearing bead is a good idea.
I might suggest you forego the swivels. They aren't really nessary. You can achieve blade cavitation without them. (IMHO).
The captive barrel swivel is taught by some spinner gurus such as Jed Davis. I did this for years.
I hate forming that loop with the swivel in there !
I've been doing a "naked loop" for years now and use a size #10 Rosco (USA) snap swivel.....much mo betta.
The swivel protects the knot and helps with line twist.
Not an advocate of tying direct to the spinner for river fishing.
The split rings are cool, allowing you to change hook types. I know folks who love the sickle hook, tho I prefer trebs for superior balance. Barbless trebles of course.. lol
The split ring connection at the hook has been standard for me since I started building in the mid 80's. "Spinner Dave" Kaffke enlightened me to the virtues of the split ring connection for the hook.
Not so much for hook change-out (using open-eyes), but for better swivel action of the hook...lessens binding.
Clevis sizes often vary depending on where the blade holes are punched.
A size 4 French wants a size 2 clevis to be "architecturally correct".
It can bind and cause the blade to "helicopter" during the cast.
I hate that, instant multiple line twists and a crappy cast !
Going to a size 3 doesn't look as cool, but you will get less helicoptering.
Always looking for the perfect hook (which doesn't exist of course) and started using Mustad 10848BLN last summer.
This hook has every element covered right out of the package...no tweeking needed.
Large open eye
Offset
Inboard kick
Modified O'Shaunessey bend
Slight beak point
Sticky sharp
I've been using size 1 for my steelhead spinners.
Did I mention, I'm a fully-ordained treble hater ?
