Ethanol fuel damage!!!

M
Mad dog
0
Just got my driftboat motor out of the shop, had to have the carb completely rebuilt! Not cheap!!! Not only did I lose some quality fishing time this winter I might as well be throwin' money out the window! :mad:

Be carefull where you buy your fuel and what goes in your tank! :rolleyes:
 
I hear you, I have to rebuild my generator motors carb due to E10, I had to do my kicker last year because of it. Thanks Ted.
 
Yes have heard of several outboards going hensh*t because of this. Big motors.. Manufacturers won't back up blown motors. Not a good thing
 
And the feds want to push us from the E10 to E15, and even E20 blends. Ethanol is bad science - it makes you burn MORE fuel, thus the net effect is that you're dumping more crap into the air than you would burning non ethanol fuel. But hey, we've got to support special interests, right?
 
what was the year and make of your motor?
 
stabil fuel stabilizer!! i use it in everything that burns gas other than my daily drivers. ive never had an issue with it.
 
Cap - it's just going to be a matter of time. The ethanol (alcohol) in the fuel destroys seals, fuel lines, carbs, and can cause detonation during the combustion stage. That's all bad stuff. Fuel stabilizer just keeps the gas fresh and reduces the decay of the gas itself - it does nothing to remove the offending alcohol from the engine. It's not just small engines that perform poorly or get damaged by the ethanol blend crap - automotive engines don't really like the stuff either. One of the bad things about bio-diesel for example, is that it has alcohol in it, which causes accelerated wear of major components. Ethanol is fine - for engines actually designed to burn it - but engines designed to burn petroleum don't like to burn alcohol. Most new outboards are OK with 5 or 10 percent blends - but this push to move to 15, 20, or higher percentage of alcohol not only will cause performance problems and accelerated engine wear (and damage) - but in most cases voids your warranty. How'd you like to spend fifteen grand on a new engine, only to find out when it breaks because of the ethanol blend used - that said high ethanol content gas voided your warranty?
 
i realize its not only small gas engines, but the daily drivers dont sit long enough for the fuel to seperate. thats why the majority of the problems are on marine engines and engines that sit for some time. stabilizer doesn't remove the ethanol, but it slows the seperation which is when the damage occurs. I have ran all my engines with e10 and stabil, and not one of them has missed a beat, old or new. maybe its luck, but i tend to think the stabil has something to do with it. we have had plenty of these ethanol debates already. oh and about the fifteen thousand dollar engine.. why not run non-ethanol through it??
 
When you read about race engines that burn ethanol (Indy Cars) they are designed for that type fuel and they are rebuilt after practically every time out on the track. The trick to making your engine last longer with E-blend fuel is to make sure it is completely out of the carb before up put it away EVERY time you put it away. Two or three days may be OK but any longer will cause problems. I have a good friend who is into using ethanol and he suggested running my engine dry at the ramp and then spray a shot of WD-40 in the carb and crank it a few times. He says this will keep the varnish from building up in the carb and plugging the fuel ports. Any body else tried this?
 
You guys are right about the ethanol eating seals & such. The guys that haul straight loads of it into the pipeline I haul off of in Eugene have had to replace loading valves due to it. We have two stations that my boss owns that carries non ethanol gas. I use it in my generator & all lawn equip. & if I had a boat motor I would use the non ethanol. We sell a lot of it for that reason alone. I've noticed even with the 10% I haul in my loads are deteriating the valves & sight glass on my tanker. They need to get rid of it because is expensive to produce, it does nothing for the inviroment due to the off set used to produce it & it hurts mileage. Just another money making ploy by old Gore & his buddies.
 
I guess we could just let it settle out and then drain it OFF the petrol before putting it in the boat tank!
 
I run the treatment for my outboard. I use twice as much and run it monthly. This is my routine for the last 3 years and I have never had a problem. If you use straight e-10 and let it sit it will be bad news. For anyone with a 2 stroke. It would be worse to run it dry at the ramp, since your loosing your oil in the process. Better to perhaps just unhook the tubes for the carb etc and drain the bowl. There are good fuel websites that show who sells non-10. Most sell it as a premium though vs regular. The whole subject on ethanol is a pot of worms imho. I see how it creates a market for the farmers etc but doesn't justify the costs of subsidizing the whole manufacturing process for saving a little bit of oil imports.
 
I try not to get involved in the political side of the discussion because it gets my Blood Pressure UP!
 
I agree! Ethanol wouldn't even be a marketable product if it wasn't for politicians who don't care about the real effects. Another bad thing about it is that it is anhydrous. It will draw water to it, causing condensation etc and that also causes fouling and carb problems. Its just not suiting for non-daily use or marine applications but the crap is everywhere so whats a boater to do? I may have to move out of the country the day they start cutting my Rum and Whiskey down with ethanol.
 
GDBrown said:
When you read about race engines that burn ethanol (Indy Cars) they are designed for that type fuel and they are rebuilt after practically every time out on the track. The trick to making your engine last longer with E-blend fuel is to make sure it is completely out of the carb before up put it away EVERY time you put it away. Two or three days may be OK but any longer will cause problems. I have a good friend who is into using ethanol and he suggested running my engine dry at the ramp and then spray a shot of WD-40 in the carb and crank it a few times. He says this will keep the varnish from building up in the carb and plugging the fuel ports. Any body else tried this?
Click to expand...

I just rum my motor out of fuel and call it good.
 
i think your better off leaving fuel in the lines and carb than running it empty. if i was going to leave it for a long time, i would run it dry, but i would also use the wd40 trick. it gets rid of the moisture
 
.
 
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The danger from too much ethanol is not only from the seal damage but it also reduces the oil viscosity that is meant to lubricate the engine! I have been told by several marine mechanics that they are seeing more damaged engines from what appears to be lack of lubricant. As for running the carbs dry after a day on the water that also lets the mixtures lean to the point of loosing all lubricant before the engine stops.

So, I guess the debate will continue here on OFF!

GD
 
.
 
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Anything like this you boys and girls can just ask me I am a wealth of information...

Anything like this you boys and girls can just ask me I am a wealth of information...

Mad dog said:
Just got my driftboat motor out of the shop, had to have the carb completely rebuilt! Not cheap!!! Not only did I lose some quality fishing time this winter I might as well be throwin' money out the window! :mad:

Be carefull where you buy your fuel and what goes in your tank! :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Ok about a year ago we started seeing issues but they go even further than just carbs.
The ethanol in the gas pulls water into your tank through the carb and can enter faster with more air (thus your tank is kept full this process will take longer, but if your tank is empty oh boy that water will stream in) Water makes it in to your tank then sinks to the bottom of the gas and sits there till sucked through. Due to the fact that gas lines are above the gas tank you could start your boat and it run fine for 10-20 minutes or so but then it could start to sputter, this means that the water has now entered your gas line and being pushed in through your motor.... My recommendations as well as others:



It is now recommended to run fuel stabilizer in your tank at all times at HALF STRENGTH.

Always fill your tank when done using your boat

Install a water seperating fuel filter

Always keep spare filters because they can only hold so much water then stops working

Check to see if there is any non ethanol fuel locally (usually a Chevron)

Also double check your local gas station, I have seen first hand of non working filters in gas stations. Do so by getting a quart of freash gas let it sit and see how much water is in it already. I did this at one local place here in LO and was a 60-40 split so I went down and told them your filters are not working and your ripping your customers off. I have not went back to that gas station....
OH YEAH then also it is effecting rust in gas tanks and seals.
HOPE THIS HELPS HOT STUFF LOL LOL LOL LOL
 
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