Aluminum boat seams

[Troutski]

Just curious why you don't seal the inside of the boat, I am going through the same seam problem on my restoration of a aluminum lake boat. I am going with the LineX treatment on the inside for sealing... is it a Drift boat thing doing the outside?

Chuck

 

[fishingduck]

Yep, with the shallow water we "drifters" run in you need something strong and slippery to slide off rocks but durable not to scratch off. I would not put Wetlander on the inside, you'll be sliping and sliding all day. LineX on the inside, Wetlander on the outside and it'll be bomb proof.

 

[Hooked Up]

Sounds like an interesting product. How did your boat hold up? Did you have to reapply a coat this summer? Although if its just scuff sanding and paint, doesn't sound to bad. Where did you get it and how long did it take to cure?

 

[Hooked Up]

After looking a product reviews and future touch up of the bottom coating I've decided to go with Coat-it. Everything I read said to remove entire coat with Gluvit for each application, Coat-it & Wetlander is spot repair. I couldn't find any reviews of someone who had used Wetlander and its almost twice the cost of Coat-it.

On a different note, the boat looks like it went over a substantial rock with the previous owner because bottom is concave under foot rest area. Any suggestions on how best to pop it out, I plan on having the wood deck removed since its being replaced.

 

[DrTheopolis]

Hooked Up -- I just helped my buddy (whose boat I spend a wholebuncha time in) with a bottom recoat. Didn't hurt that we both have experience as industrial painters, but it isn't rcoket surgery.

As far as the dents in the bottom go, there's a technical name for that in the driftboat world -- it's called "normal." But we were warned by a multitude of people that if it isn't leaking, don't touch it. Denting it already stressed the seams a little, trying to bend them back will just stress them more.

We went with the extremely highly recommended Wetlander. It was $108 (IIRC). The manufacturer claims it can be applied over the top of any existing hull coating, but we spent the extra few hours taking it to bare (except a little bit where the chine met the hull, which was hard to grind, and figured it would make a little "ramp" so the edge of the chine wouldn't catch on anything. Used a 4.5" POS grinder from Harbor Frieght (first one dies quick) with 36-grit flap-wheel sanders. Scraped any loose Gluvit off first, then ground/sanded the rest.

The Wetlander doesn't go on nearly as thick as Gluvit/Coatit, but it's extremely strong, and extremely slick... like the tiedown strap goes on tighter now, since it wants to slide around on the trailer.

As far as a review -- it's summer, and the local waters are a bit too low to run a driftboat. If this storm dumps a bunch, that might change very soon. But everyone we've talked too was thrilled to pieces with the Wetlander.

And it doesn't dry up to 1/4" thickness. OK, maybe if you applied 20 gallons, rather than the half-gallon that's recommended.

I'll report back when we slam a rock or two.

 

[Hooked Up]

Thanks Doc. I might have to reconsider. You & Fishingduck seem to like it, I couldn't find anything online about it other than on Wetlanders website. Also, Wetlanders twice the cost of Coat-it which had also factored into my decision. If it keeps raining like this you'll be able to try the boat in the morning!

 

[fishingduck]

OK it's been a whole season and here is my review of Wetlander. I did the three layer system which does cost about $300 but that's a one time expense and I figured how much did I spend on the boat, rods, reels, gear and bait so really the cost was not a factor. I am looking long term and am about to "touch" up the boat from all the abuse I've put it through during this low summer season. I bought another 1/2 gallon ($100) and didn't mix the whole thing. I used an 11/2oz ratio so I used 13 ounces. All I had to do was paint over some of the larger scratches and I'm done. I didn't even take the boat off the trailer and I still have plenty left for after winter and again for next spring. I don't even want to describe how bad I abuse my boat and was having to Gluv-it every year.

Bottom line is that it's your boat and do what you feel comfortable, gluv-it, coat it, wetlander, plastic wrap...the most important thing is that you feel confident on the water.

If you ever see me out on the water I'll be happy to pull over and show you what Wetland looks and feels like on. I run a Willies with blue bottom. I was going to go green with a big yellow "O" so the fish know who is slaying them.

 

[DrTheopolis]

Again, I can't give a solid, river-tested review at this point, but looks like it's coming soon. Everything I've heard is it's a lot more durable than Gluvit. Seems like Gluvit has an elasticity to it, which may make it more durable under flexing, but it seems like it makes it stick to the rocks you hit, too. All I know at this point is it slides all over the trailer, and that sliding around (while giggling about how slick it is) hasn't put a mark in it.

 

[Hooked Up]

Both of you are making a strong case for Wetlander. I'll have to talk it over with my Brother-inlaw, we bought the boat together last year. Part of my hesitation with the Wetlander is putting $300 vs $50 for two 2 pound cans of Coat-it on a $1000 boat. Thanks again guys for the great input and the link.

 

[DrTheopolis]

My buddy (who I've fished with 25+ years, and like me, has experience as an industrial coatings applicator, dealing with similar products all day) really did his homework when it came time to recoat. He talked to the head of Wetlander on the phone multiple times, like you should. Dude explained that the 2 and 3 coat applications aren't neccessary on most aluminum boats. Said the primer coat was more to do a build (smooth an imperfect surface) than as much for extra durability. Claimed the one-coat, topcoat application was all that was needed, which I think was $108 with shipping. As I mentioned, we went for total overkill and removed all of the existing coating (which was beat, just like every other drift boat out there). Once it cure for a few days, can't scratch it with a key, which is a good sign. Actually masked off just above the chine on the side (freeboard, whatever you call the side), and coated the entire chine (which was for durability and slickness, with it looking cool being a side benefit).

Duck -- the green with Yell-O bottom would be the coolest bottom ever. My bro went with black.

 

[Hooked Up]

We decided to go the Coat-it route. Hopefully we don't regret it.

 

[DrTheopolis]

We decided to go the Coat-it route. Hopefully we don't regret it.

I doubt you'll regret it. The only thing at issue is how long before you have to redo it.

As far as the update I promised - my friend did the Clackamas Cleanup (I wasn't around), and said he scraped one rock pretty good... no damage to the Wetlander. But after 5 launches in 4 days at Nehalem Bay (crabbing was good, the little fishing we did resulted in one giant, wounded cutthroat), the coating is so slick, that launching the boat becomes a different exercise. With any sort of angle, sucker wants to fall right OFF the trailer... which is fine, except on steep ramps, getting the winch unhooked was a bit of a problem. Kinda figured things out, though.