Where's my fly? What's my problem?

T
Tinker
I hook little fish, mostly. I don't have presentation down pat - I know it and I admit it. Once in a while, I get it right and something legal-sized takes the hook (and as you know, my success seems to end with a fish laughing at me at the water's edge :D ).

I've noticed that on most of my good casts, everything is looking great right up to when the fly line yanks the fly back towards me, and the dry fly ever-so-gently lands in an upside-down "J" with the line further out than the fly. That ain't right.

My fly line attaches to a 7.5 foot leader, with no more than 30" of 4lb mono tippet, down to 12-18" of 3lb fluorocarbon tippet tied to the fly (I pre-tie most of my dry flies to the samll length of fluoroccarbon tippet at home so I don't have to try to thread the hook on the bank while fish are rising all around me).

I've been Googling around trying to find a hint about what I'm doing wrong, and I'm not seeing it. What am I doing that causes the fly line to stop abruptly and yank back on the fly?
 
J
joem
im far from an expert but have caught a few fish on the fly and what i think is your casting further than you have line out. you lines getting to the end before it hits the water causeing it the snap back like a bull whip.
 
O
OnTheFly
Strange. Usually when the line stops mid air it should throw the fly and leader out in front of it or better yet, the fly line lands on the water and the fly gently floats down like a natural. Often times I will deliberately pinch the line with my fingers as it's still traveling through the guides to achieve this result. The only other thing I can suggest is follow the line down with your rod after the cast. Maybe there's a whiplash condition you're creating.:think:
 
S
Spydeyrch
Tinker,

Sounds like you are unintentionally doing a tuck cast. :D

A tuck cast is where you purposely over power your cast causing the fly line to hit the end of the cast but still have too much energy in it. It will cause your fly to bounce back toward you. A good tuck cast will actually cause the fly to shoot down toward the water.

So now that you know what is causing it, excess energy in your fly line, there are potentially a few causes. It may be a single issue, or may be a collection of various issues all working in tandem to cause this excess amount of energy.

I think, based upon what you have described thus far, that it could be your leader/tippet setup together with your casting stroke.

There is a reason why trout leaders, for the most part, are tapered. It allows transferring the energy created from your cast to your fly in a smooth almost uninterrupted motion or transference. It also functions as a way to dissipate energy. As the energy moves down your tapered leader, there is less and less of it for the energy to travel through, so it starts to dissipate. Thus with the right amount of power in your cast, it is simpler/easier to get a good transfer of energy to your fly to give a good presentation.

Now, that being said, one with enough practice and experience, could do perfectly fine casts and get wonderful presentations with non-tapered leaders. And each has its own purpose and application. All I am saying is that it is typically easier to get a good presentation with a tapered leader, due in part to how it transfers energy.

Also, length of the leader is an important factor. The shorter the leader, the less distance your cast energy has to travel before it hits your fly, which directly translates into less opportunity to dissipate any excess energy. Thus your fly gets blasted with extra energy and it snaps back to you.

There is also the diameter of tippet vs leader end. If your leader end comes down to a say 6x size, but you are attaching 5x, 4x, or 3x tippet (any size tippet of large diameter than the leader end), you are essentially adding a thicker piece to a thinner piece right at the end of the whole thing. The little bit of energy that is at the end of your leader now has to push through something thicker than what it is traveling through right before it hit your tippet. You are going to lose some energy, thus giving your presentation issues. And the opposite holds true too. If you go from a thick leader end, let’s say 3x, down to a smaller tippet of 5x or 6x or maybe even 7x, then the amount of energy at the end of your leader before hitting your tippet is going to over power the much much smaller diameter tippet and again, you will have presentation issues.

Another thing to consider is the material. It really doesn’t play into everything too much, but it is something to consider. Every material has its own density. And the denser a material is, the easier the transference of energy is. Think about sound going through air vs. water. Mono (Nylon) and Floro are made of different materials, and their density is different. If you are going from one that transfers energy very easily, to one that doesn’t, you are going to have presentation issues. And vice versa, if you are going from one that doesn’t transfer energy very easily to one that does, again, your presentation is going to have different consequences as well.

Think of it like this: if you are driving a camero (or any sports car of your liking) and are zipping along a nice smooth race track, then all of a sudden the nice smooth race track converts to a dry sandy beach, what is going to happen? You are going to lose your momentum quite quickly because you are now driving across a different medium, or material, one which doesn’t allow your tries to have sufficient traction to give you the speed needed or desired. Your transference of energy from the car to the surface is not as efficient as it was when you were driving on the race track. Does that make sense? Now, again, really the differences in mono vs. floro are quite small, but it is something to take into consideration.

I personally have my typical trout setup as such (regarding leaders and tippets)
Leader: 9 ft tapered mono. Depending on the stream, fish, season, etc. I will vary my leader from 3x – 6x. I find that the 9 foot length really allows me to do some very good presentations and it helps with the transference of energy very well, while dissipating that little extra “oompf” that perhaps I gave it right at the end of my cast when really I didn’t need to.

Tippet: I use mono tippet. If I used a floro leader, I would use a floro tippet. I have floro tippet with me when I go fishing but rarely use it. I tend to stay with in a 3 level range of my leader when choosing my tippet size. For example: if I have a 5x leader on, I will use either a 5x tippet or 6x tippet, and if I truly need or want to go up, sometimes I will use a 4x tippet. So, I use tippet that is either one size higher, same size, or one size lower than my leader size.

You should also consider if you are using heavy flies (like bead-head flies, double rigs, hopper dropper rigs, etc.) on light leader/tippet setups. The heavier your fly setup, the “heavier” your leader and tippet setup should be. It allows for better turn over, it has more mass to it to help cut through the wind, and it allows you to better manipulate your rig setup.

Maybe the biggest thing affecting your fly presentation is your casting stroke. If you add too much power to it right at the last moment in your forward stroke, right before you send it flying to present it to the fish, it will have too much energy in it. Too much energy will over come everything describe above and cause your fly bounce back to you. Perhaps letting up a little on your forward stroke will help to some degree.

Here are some links that provide information regarding leaders and tippets:

Hopefully this information will help you and not confuse you. Sometimes (actually a lot of the time) I give more info than what is really needed. Just ask my wife, hahahahahaha. :lol:

Take care man and have at it!! Good luck out there.

-Spydey
 
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T
Tinker
Okay. There is definitely a bull-whip effect - which I now understand to be a "tuck cast" (and had to forget the name of my first puppy tobe able to cram all this new information into my brain cells).

I've been using a 5x tapered leader, attached to the 4lb mono tippet, and the extra bit of tippet I tie to the fly at home is 6x (3.8lb). I was struggling with a 9-foot tapered leader and went to 7.5 foot - which helped at the time - but now that I've worn down my rotator cuff with practice casts, I probably should go back to 9 feet. These days my casting stroke is smoother and that seems to also mean that the flies go further.

I'll watch my casting stroke. Trying to think back, I caught myself adding a tiny bit of forward wrist flick right at the end of the casting stroke several times, but I don't remember if those were my new, fancy, tuck casts. I'd have to believe that that extra power right at the end would certainly over-power the cast and would probably whip the rod tip, too.

I'm at that point where I'm getting the hang of it, but where it still feels all foreign and unnatural to me, so I tend to pay attention to this, then to that, then to the next thing and not to the whole picture of what I'm doing and what results.

Did you ever go further with your idea about Spydey's World Famous Learn How to Fly Fish Guide Service? I might be your fist client...

Thanks, all. I'm pretty sure you've pin-pointed the source of my problem. Now I know what to watch. Appreciate it.

And Spydey: thanks for the gear tips. Trying to figure out how all the non-matching numers fit together is still a bit of a challenge for me, and I have to pause and go back to look them all up whenever I'm thinking about making a change.
 
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Casting Call
Casting Call
Hi Tinker! All rods and reels and line need to be fine tuned to perform a well casted presentation. Let me throw-in a few comments. First, I hope your not using a loop to loop at the running line to leader if not cinched well, a lot of energy is lost at that point. Accum's razor tells me that you are not letting out enough running line. Finger stack your haul line in larger loops and keep the line wet. Try all the good advise that has been given on this thread and you will find your flaws a your cast gets better. I don't know where you live but if your ever near Lincoln City pm me and I will be glad to help you fine tune your set-up Tony
 
H
halibuthitman
You are driving your rod, instead of letting the line perform its task.. You need to slow down your cast.. And make sure you treat your fluoro line with floatant.. It sinks
 
E
eggs
big flies = big fish... that is allll you need to know!:lol:
 
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T
Tinker
halibuthitman said:
You are driving your rod, instead of letting the line perform its task.. You need to slow down your cast.. And make sure you treat your fluoro line with floatant.. It sinks

Yes, I am. I started paying attention to my entire arm (not just my wrist) and I believe I have been trying to fling the fly as hard as I can. I slowed it all down this morning and surprise! I was making much better-looking casts.

I didn't just figure that out all on my own: I made the line crack like a bullwhip and lost the fly - for the first time - and tried casting more slowly and more gently. I really, really hate having to tie on a new fly.
 
T
Tinker
Casting Call said:
Hi Tinker! All rods and reels and line need to be fine tuned to perform a well casted presentation. Let me throw-in a few comments. First, I hope your not using a loop to loop at the running line to leader if not cinched well, a lot of energy is lost at that point. Accum's razor tells me that you are not letting out enough running line. Finger stack your haul line in larger loops and keep the line wet. Try all the good advise that has been given on this thread and you will find your flaws a your cast gets better. I don't know where you live but if your ever near Lincoln City pm me and I will be glad to help you fine tune your set-up Tony

I'll happily take you up on your offer if I'm ever in the area. Thanks!
 
T
Tinker
eggs said:
big flies = big fish... that is allll you need to know!:lol:

I'm not disputing you, but the smallest fish I ever caught was hooked on a #12 Adams. Again, if it was a fsh and not a tadpole... :smile-new:
 
M
markasd
I do not find the bigger fly catches the bigger fish..
e.g. = fishing Fall River, walked up on two 20"+ trout laying in about 2' of water... I cast a #22 BWO and they both charged it... biggest trout on a dry... Fished that little creek for nearly two years solid and that was the largest I was able to land in there. Most others were on large wet flies...
just sayin'.
 
T
Tinker
I've solved the mystery. I haven't corrected it, but I figured-out what I'm doing. First: I'm badly overpowering some casts. To keep a dry fly on top, I've been making false casts when neeed, and I'm not a patient kind of a guy so I false cast mighty aggressively (I whip that damned fly until it's fluffy again) and then, without slowing down enough, make the cast with way too much force. Second: I've been flipping my wrist when my arm gets tired. It takes a lot of false casts to keep a fly floating, especially after some idiot, microscopic minnow slimes up the fly - and I have a lot fo that going-on - so my shoulder gets tired. Do I sit down for a moment and let the fly dry out? When there's fish in the water - even small fish? I'm not that smart, and flick my wrist thinking that will throw the fly further. (I don;t know if the minnows are the idiots or if it's me). Finally: the leader was too short. I'd been trying to use a 7.5-foot tapered leader with 18 inches of "pre-tippet" (I've copyrighted that term) then 9 inches of tippet I'd tied to the fly at home, where I have excellent light and no wind. My thoughts were that that equals a 9-foot leader and a 9-inch tippet. It does not. Switching to a 9-foot leader and getting rid of my pre-tippet made quite a difference.

Thanks to all-a-y'all for the suggestions. Each of you was correct and I am stupified to find out the problem isn't that I do one or even two things badly, but have been making all of the mistakes you suggested.

I'm nothing if I'm not an over-achiever!

Thanks.
 
I
Igor
Tinker,

What kind of flyrod are you using? Rodgerdodger and I were talking about flyrods the other day. As it turns out, we both use rods from our early years ... vintage rods ... as we are not getting old, denial on my part at the least. For me, I cannot cast newer and much faster action flyrods worth a darn (as in my steelhead flyrod) , I originally learned to flyfish with a bamboo (very ... S L O W ... action) rod. To this day, I still miss that underpowered, short casting, japanese made piece of wood. Well, it was actually made out of allot of pieces of wood.
 
T
Tinker
Igor, I'm using a Ross Essence Elite flyrod - came as a kit - that's supposed to be a slow-to-moderate action for newbies. I was out at the river this morning practicing and I'm starting to think the rod is way too stiff for a 9-foot 4wt. I didn't notice it in my ten thousand practice casts on the lawn, but watching my mstakes very carefully today, I noticed that the rod never comes close to loading. It doesn't load on the back cast and it never loads on false casts (when I'm drying out the fly).

It has the right amount of backing. I use an above-median priced Scientific Anglers 5wt WFF line, and at the moment, I'm using a 5X 9-foor SA trout leader.

On the lawn, I was able to cast to thirty feet repeatedly. On the bank, thirty feet is a true struggle. I'm starting to think that struggling to put the fly out in productive water - sya 25 to 30 feet out - is the underlying reason that I'm flinging the rod, not making nice loops, and making a mess of everything.

I also noticed that when I make a roll cast, the water resistance helps to load the rod and the cast rolls out nice and cleanly. Pick the line up and try to cast pretty much any distance and it all falls apart again. I've slowed down, I've watched the line behind me, I've tried everything I can see in videos or read in books (and remember from sporting goods shows) and I can get a directional imporvement, but it's still nowhere near right.

I'm going to work in the yard again and see if it's me or if it's the rod.

Meanwhile, suggestions on a not-too-expensive rod would be Most Appreciated. I'm not looking for a great rod, just one that works.

It could be me, and maybe I need a coach, but I'm starting to suspect that it might not be all my fault.
 
H
halibuthitman
Those are horrible rods tinker... I would fish an SA 6 wt on it, its actually about a 6.5 line. Go to the lami shop in woodland and buy a cheap rod there ( under $80 ) anyone can cast a lami fly rod, they are all quite forgiving-
 
T
Tinker
Thank you. I've handled an SA but not in a tackle shop, and couldn't learn much about them. Will surely give them a better look.

Okay, have got to learn to read these more carefully. At first I thought you meant Lamiglas rods, then I thought you meant Scientific Angler rods - which people seem to like - but when I went and looked I found SA is only offering rod/reel packages. I liked all the Lamiglas rods I Tinker-ed with and will start shopping - now that I think I like fly-fishing.

Appreciate the tip on a shop, too.
 
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S
Spydeyrch
I agree with HHM, throw that Scientific Angler 6wt line on it. Also, if you are available this Saturday, I am going to be going fishing, don't know where yet, but maybe we could hit some water. Shoot me a PM if you want to go. Take care and good luck!

-Spydey
 
T
Tinker
halibuthitman said:
Those are horrible rods tinker... I would fish an SA 6 wt on it, its actually about a 6.5 line. Go to the lami shop in woodland and buy a cheap rod there ( under $80 ) anyone can cast a lami fly rod, they are all quite forgiving-

Okay, I've decide to sh**-can the Ross rod and I do like the Lamiglas rods, BUT... are there still differences between 2-piece and 4-piece rods? This has got to be the dumbest reason for asking the question: the Ross outfit came with a nice tube - the kind where you can keep the reel attached - and it's for a four-piece rod. It's about the only good thing from that kit and I like that I can wander around with the rig protected in a tube with the reel on the rod.

6wt disn't make much difference. 7wt was a directional improvement. This rod truly bends more at the butt than at the tip!
 
H
halibuthitman
Ok, your going to think im insane, but go to ebay.. Look up eagleclaw flyrods, find a featherlight or ultralite in a 4 or 5 wt.. Yes.. The yellow $25 one.. Im not kidding, i have a feeling you will like it, and you will enjoy casting it-
 

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