Oars revisited...

[luddite]

Had the boat out on the lake for a first paddle and determined the oars it came with are good for spares only. I have read through the archives and still have a few questions...

1. Wood or composite...I know both have pros and cons. Which do you use and why?
2. Length...the ones I have are 8'8" and too short for my liking. I have to bring them up to my collar bones to get a decent amount of blade into the water. I am 6'1" and the boat has a 6' beam @ the oarlocks, I am thinking 9'6"-10' for new ones.

Good oars are a chunk of change so I don't want to screw this up...

Thanks for any input...

 

[Santiam338]

I am 6'1" also...16' x 54" boat and almost 6' between the oar locks...I run 9'6' oars and think they are just right.. Composite if you can afford it..Ash if you can't...Ash will work just fine...

 

[eugene1]

One important thing is to adjust your rower's seat in relation to the oarlocks. If your seat is too far back from the oarlocks, it'll be hard to row.

 

[JeannaJigs]

Ive been using 10' composites made by sawyer and haven't looked back. They were a good chunk of change, close to $400 but they are way better than the wooden 9 footers it came with, I definitely have more leverage and control, and if/wen I bust a tip, the tips are replaceable instead of having to purchase an entire oar.

 

[eugene1]

Forgot to say that I have some 10' Cataracts that you could try if you're near Eugene. Buying oars can be a difficult decision since you're not sure what will work for you and your boat. I was just there myself!

Best,

 

[GDBrown]

Best rule of thumb is that the oars need to be chest high with your hands 6-10 inches apart when you are in the power stroke. If they don't float tether them to the boat! Nothing worst than watching a $200 oar sink to the bottom of the river when you really need it!

I would take Eugene1 up on his OFFer to let you try his ten footers if possible.

 

[luddite]

eugene1: thanks for the offer, I am in Eugene. I'll PM you when I have time for a test paddle.

GDBrown: That's the basics I was working off of also. When I do that with mt 8-6 oars about 1/2" touches the water.

Stopped by Oregon Paddle sports @ lunchtime today and talked with them a bit, very nice folks and good prices since there is no extra shipping. Looked at both the Cataracts and the Sawyers.

 

[veilside180sx]

I prefer the Lamiglas Graphite Oars more than the Cataracts for composite. The Sawyer MXG's are great oars as well.

eugene1: thanks for the offer, I am in Eugene. I'll PM you when I have time for a test paddle.

GDBrown: That's the basics I was working off of also. When I do that with mt 8-6 oars about 1/2" touches the water.

Stopped by Oregon Paddle sports @ lunchtime today and talked with them a bit, very nice folks and good prices since there is no extra shipping. Looked at both the Cataracts and the Sawyers.

 

[eugene1]

eugene1: thanks for the offer, I am in Eugene. I'll PM you when I have time for a test paddle.

Sounds good, Saturday works for me, or next week in the afternoon. Koffler boats also has oars for sale in Eugene if you want to do some comparison shopping.

 

[CleaverID]

I have run Cataracts on all my boats from the 15' self bailer to the 16' cat and the 19' pavati. Lamiglas had a bad spell of oar shafts shattering but may have gotten better. I pinned a 9.5' cataract on a ripping Middle Fork of the salmon float with a 1200 lb gear boat and it survived without shattering. Made a nice C shape and popped free. I doubt many other oars would have survived. Sawyer are nice shafts as well but tend to be more money. I only use rope wrap and don't believe in training wheels but that is a personal preference. I run counterbalanced 10.5' shafts on my 17' (tip to tail 19' on gunnel) x61" and they work great. Hadn't used counterbalanced but tried them and like them. I don't think I would use them on a whitewater boat though, They are heavy. Hope this helps.

 

[CleaverID]

Note to self, check how old the thread is prior to posting........