F
FishSchooler
So if I use the 10 lb green big game, trout won't really care about it? They dont seem to care about 12 lb maxima UG. 
Now, I have 9000 yds of new line to use up.
Now, I have 9000 yds of new line to use up.
Good quality line?
D
Derek
I like P-Line it is smaller diameter for the pound test it is I have only used the CXX line though I like Maxima too thats all I used to use but went to the P-Line for the smaller diameter both real good lines about the same price too.
C
catphish
phish-on said:
Hawg Quest swears by P-Line. And if that whacky guy and his goofy camera-man say its good, THEN ITS THE WORD OF GOD! :shock: I mean, if the tv says its good, it has to be. Right?
Of course its all a matter of opinion, based on actual usage. I have 3 lines in rotation right now. I have p-line 12lb, and Maxima 15 lb on my baitcasters. On my spin I currently have a braided 30lb, with maxima leter (no strech, hook sets like Im snapping backbones), 12lb floro, and 8lb for bass/trout. Im not too fond of the braided on a spin reel though, Im getting a lot of avalanche type issues, and some knots. Maybe too much line on spool? Remember, I dont know a thing, I do everything my dog tells me to do, and Im Irish/Portugese.
M
mikeredding
:clap::clap: That's funny. I know Glen. I will let him know that you have faith in him and Taj!!:dance:catphish said:Hawg Quest swears by P-Line. And if that whacky guy and his goofy camera-man say its good, THEN ITS THE WORD OF GOD! :shock: I mean, if the tv says its good, it has to be. Right?
F
FishSchooler
8 lb Pline CXX Mono has a breaking point of 21+ lbs! :shock: But it doesn't have much abrasion resistance, cause it breaks pretty easily when snagged up in tons of rocks like the in Columbia.
A
adambomb
I tried some 12lb P-line not long ago, the CXX in green. It is now in my garbage can!! super high memory, and super stiff too. So, I asked a pro what I should try next and he recommended Tuffline in 30lb braid. I now have a favorite line, this stuff has virtually zero memory, and casts like a dream. I can feel confident to land a steelhead, or put on mini-spinner and hook small trout, it is that light.
K
koboabe
I have been using Maxima UG and Fireline crystal
the fireline is great, casts well and is very strong.
the fireline is great, casts well and is very strong.
Y
Yentz
I base what line I use after what pole I am using. I have had a pole nearly snapped in half because I used to heavy of line. Ideally, you want a line that will break before the pole does.
F
fishhunter
4# or 10# maxima chameleon the best
D
DirectDrive
Sill use Chameleon 25# and 30# on boat rigs for salmon.
I have Tuf Line 65# for salmon and light sturgeon.
For summer steelhead I need distance, abrasion resistance, limpness and a slick finish for great knots.
These qualities don't really exist in any one line.
I used UltraGreen for years but the trade-off is its stiffness...it kills my range unless I use 8#.
'Bout 7 years ago, enter Sufix ProMix. It was called Sufix DNA when it was first released. Light green in color. Limp but surprisingly tough with a nice finish for good knots.
This line is as close to qualities I need when grippin' and rippin' for summer steelhead on big water. A nice benefit is its small diameter, so now I can use 10# and I get more range than with 8# UG.
I still like UG for leaders.
For Hi-Vis line I like another Sufix product called Tritanium Plus in Hi-Vis Chartreuse.....it's impossible to find locally, I have to mail order it.
I can't believe I'm usin' a Chinese made line, but it has proven itself over and over and over to me over the past 7 years.
I have spooled up several fishin' buddies and they have stayed with it.
I have Tuf Line 65# for salmon and light sturgeon.
For summer steelhead I need distance, abrasion resistance, limpness and a slick finish for great knots.
These qualities don't really exist in any one line.
I used UltraGreen for years but the trade-off is its stiffness...it kills my range unless I use 8#.
'Bout 7 years ago, enter Sufix ProMix. It was called Sufix DNA when it was first released. Light green in color. Limp but surprisingly tough with a nice finish for good knots.
This line is as close to qualities I need when grippin' and rippin' for summer steelhead on big water. A nice benefit is its small diameter, so now I can use 10# and I get more range than with 8# UG.
I still like UG for leaders.
For Hi-Vis line I like another Sufix product called Tritanium Plus in Hi-Vis Chartreuse.....it's impossible to find locally, I have to mail order it.
I can't believe I'm usin' a Chinese made line, but it has proven itself over and over and over to me over the past 7 years.
I have spooled up several fishin' buddies and they have stayed with it.
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S
steelhead_stalkers
adambomb said:
12 lb pline cxx breaks at over 25lbs!! That's why it is so stiff. I like to look at the diameter of line when buying. I have landed a lot of salmon on the 8 lb cxx. I think you would like it if you matched the diameter of other lines you like with it. Braid is a whole lot different than mono too as far as comparisons.
H
Herefishyfishy
I tried the Pline 10# lime green and loved everything about it except the strength. Almost zero memory and cast great but I lost a lot of tackle. Every other kind of Pline I have tried felt like I was trying to cast bailing wire. I am planning on trying some Fireline braided, I've heard nothing but good reports about that.
D
DirectDrive
If you're twisting 20# mono, be very careful with braid. I have seen some wicked birdsnests in braid.
With a spinning reel, try to avoid reeling against a running fish. In this situation, you put one twist in your line per handle revolution and you gain zero line back on the reel.
This can be a tall order in the heat of battle....put line back on the reel every chance you get but try not to reel when the drag is singing.
Liiifffftttt..........reel down.....and so on and so on.
With large fish (esp. Chinook) you will often get into a "stalemate" condition where he augers into the deep part of the hole. You try to lift to gain line and you can't lift. Here you need to be patient and keep steady pressure on him. Keep the rod tip "quiet" and let the spring in the rod wear him out. Flailing around is entertaining for your friends but it angers Mr. Big into headshakes and other nasty things.
During stalemate a good tip is to get slightly downstream of the fish if possible, this way Mr. Big has to fight you and the current simultaneously.
And then there's getting "rock-wrapped" but that's another thread.
Fish fighting means fishing is over for a while....it is its own science.
With a spinning reel, try to avoid reeling against a running fish. In this situation, you put one twist in your line per handle revolution and you gain zero line back on the reel.
This can be a tall order in the heat of battle....put line back on the reel every chance you get but try not to reel when the drag is singing.
Liiifffftttt..........reel down.....and so on and so on.
With large fish (esp. Chinook) you will often get into a "stalemate" condition where he augers into the deep part of the hole. You try to lift to gain line and you can't lift. Here you need to be patient and keep steady pressure on him. Keep the rod tip "quiet" and let the spring in the rod wear him out. Flailing around is entertaining for your friends but it angers Mr. Big into headshakes and other nasty things.
During stalemate a good tip is to get slightly downstream of the fish if possible, this way Mr. Big has to fight you and the current simultaneously.
And then there's getting "rock-wrapped" but that's another thread.
Fish fighting means fishing is over for a while....it is its own science.
