Thank you for looking at the spinners, and giving your comments. I do have a metal bead on top, and below all clevis'. I feel kind of out of my element because I have no idea what grains mean.
LOL no worries, it takes a bit to wrap ones nugget around the applied "theory" gig..
Lets see if I can be more helpful.
The grain thing.
In order to build spinners to these blade to weight ratios, as I was first instructed; I had to have a way to actually weigh them. The "cheapest" scale at the time was a reloading scale. Because the weight of gun power is measured in grains, I had to make the conversion. Hence, grains.
Beads, bearings and embellishments above the clevis probably do more to encumber the spinners action than to improve it. As well it might be a temptation for a strike well away from the hook.
The notion of a spinner blade whacking a fishes mug before it takes the hook, is a consideration on every proto type I twist up. Basic rule being, never allow the end of the blade to fall below the bottom of the lower loop, where the hook is connected. Blades can be higher up the body, but never lower than that bottom loop.
This is a theory I fully believe has merit! Depending on how you build your spinner, top down or bottom up, the first step avails you the opportunity to tune your spinner. Say your building top down as Allen did. Once your first loop is formed, hold it at eye level and roll the shaft between your thumb and fore finger. Check out the loop to verify it's round and sits straight on top of the wire; like a lolli-pop. when turning it quickly is pretty easy to see if it spins true. It's only wire a small adjustment can set a crooked loop straight.
If you build as I like to, bottom up, you can tune the hook loop the same way as mentioned above, except the hook will hang while you spin the wire. A funky loop will throw the hook out by centrifugal force. A tuned loop will hold the hook directly in line with the wire.
This brings me to......... The extra 1" tag wire. If you don't crowd the clevis, you can get in and put a spin on the wire and verify the tuning of your final loop, be it the top or bottom.
This is why I don't like blue foxes. if you look at the top loop it's D shaped, not a good sign...... with no way to "tune" it or verify to my satisfaction level, it's highly suspect to, more often than not, be out of tune.
Does it work? Is it really important? I think so in that it's giving me a benchmark to work from. I twisted many gems that were epic FAILS, not so much any more.
On the other hand I've seen salmon destroy spinners, bent beyond belief and had friends claim them to be "lucky spinners". Tuning at that point no longer a consideration, yet fish still hit them. Go figure!
Your spinners concepts are creative, keep running with it