Bass fishing spots near Portland

HombreLibro85
HombreLibro85
Are there any good spots for bass fishing near Portland?
 
Solution
bass
For shore fishing the rocky areas that are most productive can be a little grabby so I would not use anything expensive. A 4-12lb spinning rod with 8-10lb test is a good choice. I would mostly toss soft plastics. They are inexpensive and pretty easy to fish.

I would start with an unweighted 3" senko wacky rigged (I like the brownish colors, I think it is called cinnamon). Twitch it a lot, this does not have to be on the bottom and can act as a search bait to see if the fish are active.

I would also carry some jigheads (shaky heads work well) in 1/16, 1/8, 1/4oz sizes and use those with a small plastic craw, grub or tube. Try to match the weight to the current and the depth. Too little weight and you are not close to the bottom. Too...
bass
bass
Any rocky area on the Willamette. You can spend a half hour on google maps and find years of water to fish. A couple of great shore spots to get you started are George Roger's park and Mary s Young park.
 
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HombreLibro85
HombreLibro85
Thanks! I’ve been fishing for about a year now and never targeted bass and I’m really looking forward to it. Any pointers on what gear to start with?
 
Bake
Bake
I've fished for Bass for 40 years, and have found that there is a lot more small bass than big ones. In fact, I went about 10 years before I caught my first 4 pounder. I would use a 9' 5wt fly rod, a 6' bait caster w/12lb line, 7' spinning rod loaded w/10lb line, and a 71/2' flipping stick loaded w/25lb line. This assumes there isn't a lot of snags. If you are fishing snaggie water you may want to go up in line weight, and leave the fly rod home.

Many years ago when I chased Bass in Texas, because of the snags and the stained water, the bait caster had a 20lb line, the spinning rod had a 20lb line, the flipping stick had a 35/40 lb line, and the fly rod stayed in the p/u truck...
 
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bass
bass
For shore fishing the rocky areas that are most productive can be a little grabby so I would not use anything expensive. A 4-12lb spinning rod with 8-10lb test is a good choice. I would mostly toss soft plastics. They are inexpensive and pretty easy to fish.

I would start with an unweighted 3" senko wacky rigged (I like the brownish colors, I think it is called cinnamon). Twitch it a lot, this does not have to be on the bottom and can act as a search bait to see if the fish are active.

I would also carry some jigheads (shaky heads work well) in 1/16, 1/8, 1/4oz sizes and use those with a small plastic craw, grub or tube. Try to match the weight to the current and the depth. Too little weight and you are not close to the bottom. Too much and you snag too often. Trial and error.

Other lures that work well are small spinnerbaits, jerkbaits, etc (normal bass lures). However, if you are not getting bit on the soft plastics you are probably better off moving spots rather than trying hard baits. Smallmouth do move around a lot so a spot that is good one week can seem kind of dead the next and vice versa.

Last tip is to fish early in the morning or late in the evening. The spots I pointed out are on the West bank and thus get the evening shade.
 
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HombreLibro85
HombreLibro85
I'm looking to do some fishing down on the docks of the Willamette. Any pointers? i have a rod setup, mostly looking for advice on lures and rigging.
 
Admin
Admin
Did you try dropshot?

 
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bass
bass
The above suggestions are all good. I would add a paddle tail swimbait on a round jighead (probably 4" and 1/4oz). Pretty much any soft plastic in a 2-5" range in white (baitfish) or brown (crayfish) works well.

Other good lures for smallmouth around docks include topwaters in low light conditions, crankbaits, spinnerbaits and jerkbaits at any time. Basically, almost anything will work. What works best will depend on the depth and condition of the water on the docks. The bass may be suspended under the docks fairly near the surface of on the bottom.

I would recommend looking for rocky areas around the docks. I tend to find smallmouth on rocks and only on docks that have rocks around them.
 
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bass
bass
One more thing to add. For drop-shotting I use hollow core lead for the weight. Around 1/4 or 3/8" diameter. Bend it back and forth with pliers to break a piece off without crushing the hole closed. Then slide it up the tag end of the line and pinch with pliers to secure it. The great thing about using hollow core lead is that if it gets hung a slow steady pull just slides the weight off the line and you don't lose the whole rig nor even have to re-tie anything. Just break off another piece and pinch it on. Also, you can adjust your weight by adjusting the size of the piece you break off. It is definitely the way to go.
 
B
BrandonBeach
All of the above. They are more expert then I.

This is what has worked for me:

I usually fly fish and use a black or purple leach pattern, weighted, and fished on or around rocks and rip rap banks. Slow retrieve with some fairly robust jerking motions mixed in.

Also, I have used spin gear, and had success with large rooster tails. Green, brown and black. Around structure, fast retrieve. I have had smallmouths hit these amazingly hard. Fun.

No expert bass Fisher here, but when We have tried for them in the Willy, we have had success.. they seem to be about everywhere you would think bass should be.. ( been skunked in the Multnomah channel, can’t seem to catch them there)



Good luck.
 
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HombreLibro85
HombreLibro85
All right everyone, I found a little rocky beach and chucked a crankbait out there and hooked up with some baby smallies about 5 or 6 inches. Still lots of fun, thanks for the pointers
 
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pdxflyguy
bass said:
One more thing to add. For drop-shotting I use hollow core lead for the weight. Around 1/4 or 3/8" diameter. Bend it back and forth with pliers to break a piece off without crushing the hole closed. Then slide it up the tag end of the line and pinch with pliers to secure it. The great thing about using hollow core lead is that if it gets hung a slow steady pull just slides the weight off the line and you don't lose the whole rig nor even have to re-tie anything. Just break off another piece and pinch it on.
Great tip! I will try this.

For drop shotting, how long do you let it sit down there ? And how do you determine how far above the river floor to put the rig?

I know some advocate for very slight rod tip wiggles to create movement in the lure - do you vary frequency and timing until finding something that is working?
 
fromthelogo
fromthelogo
If there is current, I don’t impart any additional action. If I’m fishing vertically, I usually have a 12”ish tag line. If I’m casting it out, I increase to 18”-24” to account for the angle. A lot of bites happen on the drop. Be sure to keep your finger tip on the line to help detect soft bites.
 
Hooked Up
Hooked Up
bass said:
Bend it back and forth with pliers to break a piece off without crushing the hole closed.
It's one more thing to carry but dog nail clippers make smooth cut without crushing the lead.
 
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bass
bass
I am not too particular on the distance between the weight and the lure when dropshotting. Whatever "looks right". Probably around 12-18". I don't think that is critical.

As @fromthelogo said, a lot of bites come on the drop or just as it hits bottom. If I am casting it out I kind of mix up the retrieve with slow pulls, little wiggles, bigger wiggles. Try everything and see what works. When I am fishing vertically I usually drop it to the bottom and wait for a few seconds. Sometimes that initial dead stick is the deal. After that I work it with small wiggles and then bigger jerks if the wiggles don't work. Then I reel up and re-drop.

For the most part I think fish will either bite it or they won't. I don't think that it often happens that a bass that was not going to bite it decides to do so because of some magic action I impart. Changing stuff around keeps me engaged which is the most important thing.

I would say that most of the time the bite just feels like extra weight on the line rather than feeling a distinctive bite. If you feel that reel down, test for weight and set the hook. Nothing too fancy.
 
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bass
bass
Hooked Up said:
It's one more thing to carry but dog nail clippers make smooth cut without crushing the lead.
That is a great idea @Hooked Up , those sound like that they are probably about the perfect tool.

I have a pair of dikes that can do that but in the end that is another thing to have handy. I already have the pliers on my PFD for unhooking fish. You grab the lead just hard enough to hold (not crushing it) and rock back and forth. Works well enough but you do have to take care.

If you have a lots of room/deck space then having specialized tools at hand makes sense. In a kayak (or if banking it) keeping the complexity of what I have out to a minimum is useful. Thanks again for the good tip!
 
Hooked Up
Hooked Up
bass said:
If you have a lots of room/deck space then having specialized tools at hand makes sense. In a kayak (or if banking it) keeping the complexity of what I have out to a minimum is useful. Thanks again for the good tip!
They cut like a hot knife through butter.

I've got a tool caddy in the DB so storage wasn't a problem. I ended up going back to using lead pliers, poking a hole and using a snap swivel, unlocked. Just seemed easier. I carry various lengths of lead depending on the water.
 
P
pdxflyguy
BrandonBeach said:
This is what has worked for me:

I usually fly fish and use a black or purple leach pattern, weighted, and fished on or around rocks and rip rap banks. Slow retrieve with some fairly robust jerking motions mixed in.

Also, I have used spin gear, and had success with large rooster tails. Green, brown and black. Around structure, fast retrieve. I have had smallmouths hit these amazingly hard. Fun.

How do you get near rocky shorelines without snagging? For example at the willamette river fishing dock near the falls, there is a great shallow rocky shoreline behind the dock but it's snag every cast. You mention a weighted fly which is why i ask. same question applies for spin gear.
 
Snake River
Snake River
When I was a kid many years ago fishy mouth of Johnson Creek used to be great for largemouth bass early mornings or late evenings what are your best times now I hear that the smallmouth are taking over I’m talking about the late 50s and early 60s. back in those days are used to be a marina at the mouth of Johnson Creek there in the bass used to hang around those docs quite a bit also bring all the oaks park used to be good for a wide variety of panfishWhere the culvert Dumped into the river .
 
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bass
bass
Hooked Up said:
It's one more thing to carry but dog nail clippers make smooth cut without crushing the lead.

@Hooked Up I have to say that you are 100% right. I can't believe I suffered for so long. Our dog passed away a couple of years ago and I found the old clippers. I used them this weekend and they were amazing!! I spent a bunch of time trying to find this thread just so that I could thank you.

I also wanted to add that not only do they cut through leadcore like you are cutting through butter it is so easy to get the exact length that you want. When I did the bending technique length would vary quite a bit. Thanks for sharing that killer tip!!!
 

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