bank fishing with slip bobber?

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phillk6751

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I have asked around the tackle shops about steelhead and I'm stumped....I've got a 7' rod with 12# test. I tried a slip bobber (3/8 oz) with sand shrimp.....and I can't seem to get the setup to work correctly.

First issue is getting the bobber stop(knot on line) to NOT get caught up in the rod's eyes....and getting it to stay put.

I was on the Sandy river at Lewis and Clark park and it seemed like as soon as I casted the rig would be so far down river that I'd have to reel it in almost as soon as it hit the water(like 5-10 seconds). The guys at Joes were telling me to go with the 3/8 oz with like 8-10lb test for leader. I'm a real noobie to salmon/steelhead fishing.

I'm guessing I'm doing something wrong. Any advise? Am I supposed to be using a fixed bobber and fishing within a few feet from the top of water? or is it mainly 12-24" off the bottom for steelhead?

I've also got a 9' okuma celilo rod (20-40lb, 1-5oz rod, with 30lb strung), but I'd figured that'd be more for king salmon/sturgeon....running 2oz-3oz bobber for kings.
 
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Mustangdan23

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Yeah that pole will work a little longer and thinner rod would be best like a 9'6 for the good feeling. I would cut it back on the line to probably a 8-10lb line. You can bring in just about anything with it. I caught a 25+- lber with 8lb test. I would try to keep it 12 inches off bottom. Not much for bobber fishing done it a couple times on the smith works well on good days.

And you are going to want bait from on the bottom to no more than 24 inches
 
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I have asked around the tackle shops about steelhead and I'm stumped....I've got a 7' rod with 12# test. I tried a slip bobber (3/8 oz) with sand shrimp.....and I can't seem to get the setup to work correctly.

First issue is getting the bobber stop(knot on line) to NOT get caught up in the rod's eyes....and getting it to stay put.

I was on the Sandy river at Lewis and Clark park and it seemed like as soon as I casted the rig would be so far down river that I'd have to reel it in almost as soon as it hit the water(like 5-10 seconds). The guys at Joes were telling me to go with the 3/8 oz with like 8-10lb test for leader. I'm a real noobie to salmon/steelhead fishing.

I'm guessing I'm doing something wrong. Any advise? Am I supposed to be using a fixed bobber and fishing within a few feet from the top of water? or is it mainly 12-24" off the bottom for steelhead?

I've also got a 9' okuma celilo rod (20-40lb, 1-5oz rod, with 30lb strung), but I'd figured that'd be more for king salmon/sturgeon....running 2oz-3oz bobber for kings.

As far as getting hung up in the guides try to use a smaller diameter string for the stopper, and pull it very tight while keeping the string very moist. Maybe even look into replacing the tip with a larger diameter style, one that will take the heat from braided lines even if you don't use braided line it is worth it for the smoothness.
I also agree with the smaller diameter line, 6/8 lb test is plenty with the proper drag set. Keep it low in the water, run it deep and pay close attention on the sweep; specially with jigs. I like the First Bit Jigs, very balanced and productive. Cool colors, pinks, reds, and Trout sizes that the Steel head really like. Check out their site...First Bite™Jigs LLC - Steelhead jigs, Salmon jigs
If you have the room and patients its a kick to make your own, I don't pour the lead but do the custom paint and flash. Cool to catch something you designed. Slipbobber fishing is a wonderful way to fish in lakes on in rivers, stick with it and practice mending your line while drifting down stream, like a fly angler does while nymphing, my fly angling background really helped me in bobber and Jig fishing. Good luck and tight lines.

chuck
 
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phillk6751

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i stopped by Fisherman's, one guy there recommended that I don't use the knots that come with the bobbers, but to buy the ones in packages.....it seems like the thinner-lined knots work better. now to figure where to go in the next few weekends....

the guys at Fisherman's said the reason Sandy was so high and fast moving was that the mountain water flooded the river....that sound about right?
 
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nointrntrprts

you being in mollala

you being in mollala

have you fished down at dog creek on the clack yet? easy fishery - bobber water. stick with the 12# mainline, 10# leader and you'll be just fine. once you hone your skills a bit, you then could go down to 10/8 - but really what you have is great winter steelhead gear. they are catching some bruisers still - broodstock fish. when using the knots - buy those bulk bags or learn to tie your own, i do and use 20# dacron in green and orange.
any other issues post em here..... hope this helped.

mark
 
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phillk6751

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I went down to Carver park on sunday with no luck. My stepdad and brother caught 5-6 chinook jacks on rooster tails, and another local caught 2 suckers drifting with a jig and yarn.

My largest problem I'm finding out now is my knot keeps moving up and down the line. Is there a way to keep the knot tighter without being too tight to cut into my line? I'm seeing possibly the knot getting stuck in the eye while casting.

I'm guessing the steelies weren't biting on Sunday, but my stepdad kept yelling at me because I was using my heavier rod so I could cast into the current and I was using between 1 and 2 oz at my swivel to cast that far. Is it possible the steelies aren't biting because of the weight? or just spiting it out before I have the chance to set the hook?

Another question I have is about the line....I saw a video where a guy recommended using some floating line when bobber fishing and using mucilin to keep it floating so you can keep your line straight so it's easier to set the hook. If i reeled in my line enough to keep it straight enough, it'd pull my rig out of the current enough to get stuck in an eddie/still water.
 
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learning to mend your line (keep it straight) takes some time, it's not necessarily reeling to keep it straight by the way, more lifting off the water and flipping upstream to get the bend out of it - which is why long 9'+ rods are frequently reccomended, and same with the mucilin.
that bend in your line pulls your gear downstream faster than "natural" and ends up pulling it out of the zone altogether, or giving it an improper presentation.
A good thing to look for is if your bobber is standing straight up and down, if it isn't, you aren't fishing to your gears potential.

When the bobber goes down, Reel! It's important that you don't set the hook right away. you have to feel the fish before you set the hook.

I use #30 and #50 braided line on baitcasting reels instead of mono or spinning reels for bobber fishing on the clackamas, and I generally use a 1/8oz float with two #5 or #4 split shot, not 2ozs. I also like the thill mini stealth floats for low water conditions. Braid does not have the sliding issue that mono does with bobber stop knots, but you can put them on so tight they cannot be moved without damaging the braid.
I use suffix siege and maxima UG for leaders.

oh yeah, getting out of the current always isn't a bad thing, fish are lazy. You want to find the seams.

How big were the jacks your dad and brother were catching?
 
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phillk6751

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the jacks were ooh, about 5-8 inches....they were casting straight out from the left side of the boat ramp facing the water. All natives though....we also saw a huge (40-50 pounder) chinook jumping down the clack about 8-10 times....that made our day, lol

so, if you're using 9'+ rods and only split-shots and 1/8oz bobber....you're using really lightweight rods then? or how do you cast far with such heavy line and light weight? I mean, the current at the bank of carver for example is like 15-20 feet out....i can't see casting more than 5-10' with my 9' rod and a split shot or two.
 
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osmosis

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forgot to mention - adjust the bobber stop until you find the bottom of where you are fishing, and then bring your gear up 1-2'.
 
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osmosis

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That would be awesome to see!

Those were smolt instead of jacks at that size, most likely steelhead smolt in the river right now as chinook are just returning. hope they went back unharmed.. jacks have gone to sea for a year and came back. they are usually in the 18 inch range, all males.
 
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phillk6751

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That would be awesome to see!

Those were smolt instead of jacks at that size, most likely steelhead smolt in the river right now as chinook are just returning. hope they went back unharmed.. jacks have gone to sea for a year and came back. they are usually in the 18 inch range, all males.

aah, yeah, they went back unharmed...they thought they were fun to catch though, lol.....aren't steelhead smolt just rainbow trout that haven't gone to sea?
 
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osmosis

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I use #8-12 salmon rods myself.

What kind of reel are you using? With my revo's, and quantum baitbasters I have no trouble casting hundreds of feet with just those few split shots and my 8'6 or 9'6 rods. Heck I can get my ambassadeurs over 100' out with my normal bobber setup and #50braid.

spinning reel or baitcaster? if baitcaster do you know how to adjust your brake?
 
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phillk6751

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i know it's a bit large, but i'm using the penn 321 gs.....i thought the rod had a little more to do with weight vs casting dist.....the rod says recommended lure weight: 1-5oz.

I know about the adjusting the bearing....is the brake different? it's meant more of a boat reel though.
 
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osmosis

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There are phenotypic differences, but to keep it simple they are the same species Oncorhynchus mykiss.

I'm pretty sure that is a saltwater trolling reel :). you might be due for a trip to your tackle shop for a casting reel. The reel has a lot to do with casting distance.

by brake and bearing we may be talking about the same thing. since you're in molalla how about we meet up at wagon wheel park sometime. bring your bobber rig and I'll bring mine, it will be easier to go over in person.
 
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phillk6751

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so with the rod being 9', recommended line weight 20-30lb, and lure weight 1-5oz....and that reel, the peen 321 gs....if you were to recommend replacing one or the other, what would you recommend? I've got a tight budget but I might be able to get away with one....or I've got a 7' daiwa cheap rod with a 15 dollar spinning reel on my other setup which I could switch over to a longer rod, but I don't think that 7 footer will cast very far even if I wanted to unless I strap on 3/4 oz of weight.

heck, if maybe i'm casting wrong or if I can cast further with adjustments, and not having to spend more $$$, i'd be happy. lol

is wagon wheel park the one on molalla river off 213 across from the golf course?
 
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osmosis

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a 7 footer with spinning reel should be able to cast well without 3/4ozs also. I think the 9' is a better length but may be a bit heavy. If I were to replace one or the other it would probably be the reel, but I can't say for sure without giving it a test cast myself.
 
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USMC061018

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I have used slip bobbers to catch steelhead and salmon. It's a great way to cover a lot of water. I use a bobber stop attached to the main line like the one in the picture and than i thread a bead that will catch on the bobber stop. If you have trouble seeing that set up and want some more color you can use a larger corky after that. Those will rest on your slip bobber put another bead or corky beneath your bobber so it doesn't get caught on your swivel and than attach your main line to a barrel swivel. Attach your leader to the other end of the swivel and than use whatever set up you wish, ie eggs, jig, sand shrimp whatever. If you are having trouble getting your bait down before the end of the drift you can use a slip shot about a foot above your bait to get it down faster.
 
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USMC061018

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This is basically what it looks like. Quick drawing, looks like a first grader did it i know. hope it helps
 
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phillk6751

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yea, i've basically got it down....it's just a matter of going out and fishing now :)

i just had an epiphany on casting with my baitcast....i was dumb not to think to use the bar to rest my thumb at the reel....i'm new to baitcasters.
 

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