Wobble???

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Whistlepig

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First post sorry,

I just got into spinner making,and i'm hooked.

I have a couple question though. With all my spinners they wobble like crazy at the front eye where the leader hooks on. Right now I'm building a #3 Rattler Bell. So #3 bell with a #3 french blade #3 clevis. If I change the blade to a #2 Blue Fox the wobble isn't as bad. What can I do to change this??

Thanks
 
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Raincatcher

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Fine tune 'em

Fine tune 'em

First post sorry,

I just got into spinner making,and i'm hooked.

I have a couple question though. With all my spinners they wobble like crazy at the front eye where the leader hooks on. Right now I'm building a #3 Rattler Bell. So #3 bell with a #3 french blade #3 clevis. If I change the blade to a #2 Blue Fox the wobble isn't as bad. What can I do to change this??

Thanks

Whistlepig;
First of all, welcome to the best and friendliest fishing forum in the country. That being said, you do not need to apologize for anything. We don't stand much on formality around here and tend to be very forgiving. We are much more focused on helping each other with information on everything to do with fishing than we are on such things as spelling,grammar or any location of posts.
We have several very talented artisans/craftsmen when it comes to making tackle. There are several posts with instructions and pictures. There is a lot of talk about "tuning" the eyes on spinners. That is making sure the eye is perfectly lined up with the rest of the wire as far as I have figured out. I could be wrong, in which case the others will let us both know. Check out the other posts in this section and you will be totally blown away like I was.
The others will be back on soon,some have to eat once in a while,and they will be a zillion times more helpful. Hang in there, help is on the way. Be safe.
Barb
 
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ArcticAmoeba

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Ah, yes. The 'ol Rattlers. Bill has them down pretty well, but the construction is up to us. Like Barb said you can essentially tune the spinner if you build them like the pre-fab versions in the shop. Also the eye does need to be pretty well circular to be fished properly. You can fix them after construction by fudgin the top/bottom eyes in any direction you deem it needs to go. I would say the optimum, top eye wobble is roughly 1/8" for the #3's & #4's. Too little and they are not nearly as productive, and too much puts you in the same boat. After construction and testing, have your pliers, and start "adjusting" the eyes, and check the length of wire between the eyes to make sure it is perfectly straight. Also the way your wraps are positioned, and how tight/neat they are wound does make a difference. So thats probably enough to get you headed in the right direction, I'm sure some of it is repeat from Bill too. Good luck and at least keep your thread updated while you try to figure this thing out. We crush a lot, a lot of fish especially in the Summer on spinners, so if you don't figuure it out, I'm sure a brainstorm session would be in order. It took one with Bill and the best spinner fisherman I know last Summer to figure out how to target Jack Chinook specifically. Hope you figure your wiley wobble out. It will increase productivity on a spinner that out fishes other bells roughly 9 to 1. Can't go wrong with 'em.
 
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Whistlepig

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Thanks for the info I'll give it a try. I did change from .26 wire to .31 wire, and it seemed to help a little. I think my wire isn't perfectly straight either. I did read to use a 2x4 to roll the wire straight, but it's not working as well as I thought it would. The bright side is I did catch a couple trout while testing the spinners out. 2 Rainbows and 3 Browns.
 
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ArcticAmoeba

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Ah, at least you know they will catch trout! Haha.:lol: Steelhead are trout...Get ready for Summer. If you can get into this, and fish them properly, you will absolutely kill the really stinky Steel this Summer! They gut bomb the Rattlers, often!

I use .031 for all my Steelhead spinners, and some Salmon stuff gets .035, but I too find the .031 to be a lot more straight than thinner diameters. Even my trout spinners are on the .031 stainless. Don't worry about rolling the wire with wood, as the wire wil form into any minor defect in the woods surface and cause it to be worse off than it was prior. And I will say this, the straighter your wire, the easier it will be to tune it properly. If you know your section between the eyes is straight, then all you need to do from there is adjust the eyes, or your wraps.
 
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Whistlepig

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Well I was pretty happy to catch a couple fish on my first try. I'm actually in Utah so no Steelhead. SO I do want a little wobble in the front eye right???
 
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fishnquest

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Whistlepig,
Welcome to OFF. You guys making tackle are too deep for me.
Are you in south utah? My brother's in St George and is always looking for more someones (more someones?) to go fishing with; and he has a nice seaswirl.
 
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FishFinger

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Hey whistlepig,

I encountered the same issues last year while trying to refine the action of my rattle bells. I found using a #3 clevis provided the right amount of wobble for a #4 RB. #4 clevis was to much and a #2 clevis was not enough. The further the blade is from the wire the greater the wobble when it spins.

After confirming your wire is straight and both the loops are balanced and tuned; if the spinner continues to over wobble, try a #2 clevis.
 
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Whistlepig

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After confirming your wire is straight and both the loops are balanced and tuned; if the spinner continues to over wobble, try a #2 clevis.

I read you one post about switching clevises, and the problems you had. I think I will try a #2, and see what happens.
 
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Whistlepig

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Yesterday I twisted up a Size 3 Rattler with a #2 Bluefox blade, and it had only a slight wobble. So I'm thinking maybe I should get some #2 french blades, and clevises and give them a shot. Also would changing to a Colorado or Indiana blade help out any. I feel the #3 French blades are to heavy would this make it wobble.
 
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ArcticAmoeba

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Ummm, my response...it is below this...don't know why my computer double posted.
 
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ArcticAmoeba

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WhistlePig - I, and the originator of the Rattlers do believe there is a perfect wobble, and it is in the neighborhood of 1/8 inch total deflection in the top eye. Or 1/16 in either direction of dead center.

Just make sure that when your spinner is complete, that the end of the blade, is even with the eye of the hook. It is imperative that they be built this way, and it really does make a difference in "fishyess. I do like Rob's, (The R, and B, in R&B Lure CO.) .032 frech blades. They are heavier than the others available, and make for a very nice thump. You problems can be fixed with clevis changes, and wire eye adjustments, not blade weight/sizees. Blade size will become an issue if you go too small, or too large. But I have Rattlers with Frenchies, Willows, deep cup Cororados, BearValleys, Clamshell, Cascades, with every finish(painted fronts, or backs, hammer fronts, 50/50's, polished, brushed, and raw finishes...ect.) imaginable... And everything in between as well. But all my blades are in line with the eye of the hook. It really is crucial.

And changing blade shapes is mainly to make your spinner fish different water speeds, or present differently, not really for tuning. Be careful of a #2 blade on a #3 spinner.
 
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Whistlepig

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Yesterday I got some size #4 Deep Cut Colorado blades from Cabelas, and twisted them up with the Rattle bell body. Took them out this morning, and they just barely wobbled. Everything the same just diffrent blade.

I'm going out later this afternoon so see how they work on fish.
 
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Whistlepig

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What size clevis did you use with the deep cuts

I was using size #1 clevis's I also got from Cabelas. When I compair them to the clevis's I got from BC there the same size.
 

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