My first effort

Q

qwapaw

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Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
266
Location
Eugene OR
OK, I finally felt like getting off my duff and doing something productive towards fishing. These are my first 3 pinners I made. With a little more work, I think I can make some real nice ones. It is so much fun I even forgot to try to make the first one in the colors I had laid out. The white bladed one will get a high gloss UV coat over the top of the primer and the red shark. When I get good enough I hope to trade with all you guys that make your own. I think that would be a kick. Thanks, for looking, Qwapaw
 
B

bigsteel

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Joined
Oct 14, 2009
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2,546
Location
salem, oregon
hey those are looking great,,,when you gonna try em??i like the one on the right:D:D
 
D

DirectDrive

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Joined
Nov 4, 2009
Messages
459
Location
Vancouver, WA
OK, I finally felt like getting off my duff and doing something productive towards fishing. These are my first 3 pinners I made. With a little more work, I think I can make some real nice ones. It is so much fun I even forgot to try to make the first one in the colors I had laid out. The white bladed one will get a high gloss UV coat over the top of the primer and the red shark. When I get good enough I hope to trade with all you guys that make your own. I think that would be a kick. Thanks, for looking, Qwapaw
I know that this is your first effort so I'll try to go easy.
I've been building spinners (correctly) since 1985 so I know a little about this.
I formed my opinions and style on unweighted trolling spinners under the guidance of Dave Kaffke of Angling Specialities.
Dave was also instrumental in helping me understand weighted spinners, esp. using inline blades.
My French blade foundation comes from Jed Davis and his Hall of Fame book.

Any of your spinners could catch fish but they could be more effective if built properly. There are problems with each one.

1. This one uses a Colorado blade and a weighted body. It's a mix of trolling and casting parts.
A large Colorado is typically utilized for a unweighted trolling spinner. A Colorado used for a weighted design is not desirable because it grabs air and doesn't fly like a heavy French blades does.
The blade is too far away from the hook and the hook itself could be improved on. I don't use many trebles but when I do I reach for a round bend style such as Owner or Gami.

2. This is an unweighted trolling spinner and the blade is too far away from the hook. Also, taper your beads the other way.....don't put a smaller bead at the bottom.

3. This is a weighted casting spinner using a bead body.
The blade is too far away from the hook. The beads should be arranged in a weight-forward style as per Jed Davis. This arrangement is the parent of the high performance one piece bodies available today. See Jed's book.
Don't use plastic beads on weighted spinners. You will be wasting valuable space on the spinner.
Don't use bait hooks on spinners. They are not designed for this and are not as effective in this role.

In the photos below, the Lucky R is from Big Moby Tackle and shows proper proportions for a trolling spinner. Lucky R is a special deep cup Colorado variant. I prefer the blade a little closer to the hook. When hanging vertically, my blades are about a 1/4" above the hook point on trolling spinner.
This spinner uses hook tubing to hold the hook straight. There will always be two schools of thought on this matter....rigid (hook tubing/shrink tube) or loose.
I'm in the loosie-goosie camp....I like a single hook on its own high quality swivel on the business end of a trolling spinner.

The second photo is from RVRFSHR showing proper proportions for a high performance French blade weighted spinner.
The hook is the new Sickle hook from Matzuo. A very good hook at reasonable cost.
When hanging vertically I like my French blade to be about the same length as the body. Also, I like the blade to be as parallel to the body as possible....not sticking out at an angle because of improper bead placement.
A good bearing bead of 3/32" or so is a must on a French blade.

Build however you choose, but these are time-proven standards.
One thing's for sure, it's a kick in the butt when you bust a silver bullet on one of your creations for the first time.
 
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Q

qwapaw

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Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
266
Location
Eugene OR
It is hard to get started. I have and have read Jed Davis's book and have seen most of what you mentioned in print. That is good for sure. But then you talk to the guys at Poulson Tackle and they seem to disagree where the hook should be compared to the blade. I made mine with stuff I have, and plan to make some of the ones out of Mr. Davis's book. My first goal was just spinning the wire, and maybe I will catch a fish with one of them. For now they go on the wall as first attempts. It's just fun to get started. Thanks Dan
 
D

DirectDrive

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Joined
Nov 4, 2009
Messages
459
Location
Vancouver, WA
It is hard to get started. I have and have read Jed Davis's book and have seen most of what you mentioned in print. That is good for sure. But then you talk to the guys at Poulson Tackle and they seem to disagree where the hook should be compared to the blade. I made mine with stuff I have, and plan to make some of the ones out of Mr. Davis's book. My first goal was just spinning the wire, and maybe I will catch a fish with one of them. For now they go on the wall as first attempts. It's just fun to get started. Thanks Dan
Yes, when I was using Cascade Poulson stuff I would routinely destroy one or two beads with my pliers to get the blade lower.
As long as the blade does not interfere with the hook, you are okay.

Keep at it and I hope my previous post was of help.
 
C

carl hungis

Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2008
Messages
51
Location
gales Creek
Great info Direct Drive!

I just want to echo a few of his pionts. NO octopus style hooks for a spinner! They are designed to be tied on a leader (reverse eye). when place on a spinner they will naturally push away from the bite. Q, you are not the first to use these, I have seen proffesionally made spinners with the same type of hook. go with a siwash or good treble.

also, take out a few beads in order to get the tip of the blade to reach the bottom of the hook eye, or close too. and finally, switch out the plastic for solid brass.

good idea for cheap body weights; 1/4 oz. lead bullet weight powder coated.

I used to use those for years with good success.

good luck!
 
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