Missed strikes from mending issues

[Kage]

I missed 3 strikes floating worms today because I have trouble mending my braided line. My target water is flowing downstream but the water closer to the bank and the breeze pulls my line upriver. I spend a lot of time mending but the different speeds make it a constant job. Any tips or advice on what I can do to fix this problem?

 

[DrTheopolis]

The simple solution is of course the most costly -- get a longer rod.

 

[Kage]

9ft is what I'm working with, it isn't a problem most days but it's been breezy lately in that spot. Is there anything technically that I could do better? I reel in the slack and try to get the line ahead of the float but the wind keeps the slack blowing past it and I end up with a poorly presented worm out of the strike zone.

 

[Fishpdx]

Go when there isn't wind!

 

[espencer757]

From what I know about this type of fishing, and it's not a lot, you need to take a queue from the steelhead fishermen. One thing they do when side drifting is to use a floating line, and as was previously stated, a long rod. As carp stated (but I would modify it) is realize that when it is windy, it will be harder. Make small changes to minimize the problem, but realize it isn't going away on windy days.

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[ChezJfrey]

Float fishing in wind is horrible.

One thing you might try on windy days is a heavier rated float and add more weight. Toss as big a mend to account for what the water current will pull, then keep MORE of the line on the water, rod down. This negates the wind and the mis-matched currents, while they will still toy with the line, a bit more weight will help keep the presentation down and more apt to continue with the current, rather than overly swayed and pulled away by it.

If you really want to say FU to the wind...bobber dog on those days. Wind can't do jack with that

 

[Kage]

Thanks for the info guys, I went back to try again even though the wind was still there. I missed about 3 more strikes and just ended up frustrated and discourages me. To add insult to injury, a massive steelhead went leaping from the far side of the river diagonally across me to the bank down river from me.

Generally it's not been this windy in that spot I fished, it's normally easily manageable. If I go with a bigger float, I just need to match the weight as usual and it'll sit better in the wind with the braided line? Won't it be harder to set the hook with slack on the water? I'll try to work with the rod I've got now, I don't want to get out to get another rod. Windy days or not, I gotta stick to my fisherman's every week or else it feels like a wasted opportunity. Thanks again for the help guys, I plan on heading out tomorrow.

 

[Aervax]

Hi Kage. You mentioned using braided line for your float fishing. Quick question. Is it a braid that is made to float (i.e. coated), or is it standard braid? Standard braid sinks, which makes my mends slow and sloppy even under the best of conditions. Same thing goes for when I am top water fishing for bass. The braid sinks and changes the angle of the dangle when I make a move on the top water lure. It does not work right. When I am top water fishing for bass or float fishing for steel my top choices are float coated braid or a heavy nylon mono. For that app. I stay away from standard braid and fluorocarbon, which sinks even faster.

 

[espencer757]

Even with floating line, the important thing to remember is that you must get the slack out before trying to sink in that hook. The key it the real as fast as you can to take out the bend and as soon as you feel the resistance, set it.

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[Kage]

The braided line I use is a floating line, it's never sinks or gets heavy enough to get dragged under unless by weight, lure, bait, etc. Espencer, I know the vital importance of mending and removing slack. The issue that day was having to deal with the amount of wind along with the current that pulled my line which in turn resulted in excess slack that caused the missed strikes. I just need some advice on how to counteract the wind/current that was a huge impact in setting the hook. I think I'll try what ChezJrey had suggested, I had found a 1 oz float on one of my outings so I can just use that one and work with that the next time the wind picks up.

 

[DrTheopolis]

Even with floating line, the important thing to remember is that you must get the slack out before trying to sink in that hook. The key it the real as fast as you can to take out the bend and as soon as you feel the resistance, set it.

What ^^^ he said. Rod tip up, then as the slack comes in, follow the last slack down until taut, then give it a rip. Sounds good on paper, anyway. But that's how it's supposed to work. Not as easy as it sounds.

 

[espencer757]

Sad but true. The reality is, most of us who are "technical" experts see that bobber go down and try to rip the lips off that thing and then sir and try to figure out what happened. In truth, I find the number one way to hook and keep a fish is to keep calm. Get excited and you will miss our kids that fish. Take some acting lessons and pretend the monster on the line is no big thing. Yeah, right. Good luck with that. [emoji12]

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[Artwo]

I do a fair amount of bobber fishing on the Sandy and at times the wind can be really heavy. A couple things you can try that have worked for me are.......

You say you're using a braided line, make sure it's one that will float (i.e. Fireline, Namofil, etc.) and not to heavy, 14# to 17# is plenty.

When it's windy, I leave my line on the water as tight between the tip of my rod and the float without creating any drag or push if possible. To mend, just lift the line of fthe water and reset.

Much like when side drifting, when your bobber goes down or stops don't set the hook sort to say, simply lift to create tension on the line and if you feel a headshake give a little pop to drive that hook home. No need to swing for the fences as the fish will hook themselves anyway......

Hope that helps you out.....

 

[ChezJfrey]

When it's windy, I leave my line on the water as tight between the tip of my rod and the float without creating any drag or push if possible. To mend, just lift the line of fthe water and reset.

See? Another one

Yes, it's counter to 'normal' float fishing, but if the wind is strong, in most 'float worthy' water, the currents aren't usually too bad and you can usually get a better drift with most of the line in the water, mending as necessary, than line-up-high in the strong wind with a giant belly. It may not be an 'ideal' drift, but often better than hanging high in what can be a worse undue pull from the wind.

In still conditions, keeping the line out of the water is of course better practice.

 

[Native Fisher]

Top three answers are use a heavier float on windy days, get a longer rod and use Nanofil in the 17lb range. I almost exclusively float fish these days, and that is what works. On small streams I can use a 9ft rod, on larger rivers from the bank I like at least a 10.5ft rod, the extra length and a soft tip helps a lot. Although nanofil is such a super line it will help take up a lot of room for error. The heavier float also enables you to keep a tighter line without effecting the presentation or path during the drift.

 

[Kage]

Right now I've got 30# test that the guy set up on my reel, but I have no idea what type/brand it is. It does float though and has never sunk unless I made it sink. I'll bring along a 1 oz float in case I need a heavier float to work with. I think the rod is fine, although I have a 9ft 6 steelhead rod that I used before switching to this 9ft salmon rod. I felt the need for a stronger rod to handle a bigger fish in case I hooked a salmon. I really appreciate everyone's feedback and help with my posts that I occasionally put up. I feel like I'm right at the cusp of landing a steelhead and it's that anticipation that leads to frustration when I don't hook up a fish. This has been a long, expensive journey for me but it seems like it's finally gonna pay off. When it does, I will have all of you to thank for that. Not from just now but from way back when I joined this forum. Everyone who's helped me out along the way, I thank you. Now I just need to show you all by catching a steelhead!

 

[ChezJfrey]

30# braid is OK. Though Nanofil is really sweet for float fishing when I dabbled with someone's setup running that line, I personally still use 30# braid myself because I just buy some spools and use it on a various rigs as interchangeable. If you care to, definitely pick some up for float fishing at some point. But I don't see much issue with using what you have in the meantime.

 

[Artwo]

30# braid is OK. Though Nanofil is really sweet for float fishing when I dabbled with someone's setup running that line, I personally still use 30# braid myself because I just buy some spools and use it on a various rigs as interchangeable. If you care to, definitely pick some up for float fishing at some point. But I don't see much issue with using what you have in the meantime.

I agree with Chez, 30# will work, I use it on my salmon float rod set-up. However, I use an entirely different set-up for steelhead. I even have different set-ups for winter steelhead and summer steelhead depending on the water conditions. I like to lighten things up for steelhead, especially summer fish. It's more finesse fishing most of the time...................

 

[ChezJfrey]

I agree with Chez, 30# will work, I use it on my salmon float rod set-up. However, I use an entirely different set-up for steelhead. I even have different set-ups for winter steelhead and summer steelhead depending on the water conditions. I like to lighten things up for steelhead, especially summer fish. It's more finesse fishing most of the time...................

I also agree with lightening up for summers, but still run 30# braid; I like the no-memory and casting ability. Since braid has such a small diameter, I like the easier knot tying with the 30# line I can better handle, rather than the virtual thread-like consistency of the thinner/lighter braids. For drifting/hardware/floats I also tie on about an 8-10 foot 'tippet' of mono and just swap that piece with 8 lb. mono for summer.

With that long piece of mono on the end, it also makes drifting easier to replicate a 'standard' setup and get the current to help pull the gear downriver, with the flow of the current.

 

[Kage]

Do you guys think I should switch back to my 9'6" steelhead rod then? I'm just worried my rod will snap since I've no experience playing a steelhead yet and by the sizes of the ones I've seen in those waters they're pretty hefty. I may pick up nanofil at some point just to try out, and I assume use it as a mainline. Wouldn't an 8-9ft leader violate the anti-snagging regulation for floating for salmon and steelhead? I don't understand the point of that reg. since a sliding float essentially negates it.