Bearing size for a #4 spinner

Modest_Man
I'm trying to buy some components over the internet and without any visuals I can't figure out what size bearing to get and Jed Davis' book is silent on the subject.

I'll be using a #4 blade, size 2 clevis, and 9/32 or 3/8 ounce bodies.

My options are 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", 7/32", 1/4", 9/32", 5/16", 11/32". I'm guessing that's the diameter? I really have no idea.

As long as it's large enough to work as a bearing is the rest just for added weight?

Please, someone enlighten me. I need spinners.
 
chrisohm
Are you speaking of the beads that are placed on either side of the clevis? These beads or bearings allow the blade to spin and reflect properly. You can use small or large beads depending on the size of spinner you are making.
 
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GMR
I thought he did address that subject.... And thought he went smallest for less friction and easiest turning but maybe im emagining that.. now I need to read it again.
 
chrisohm
Some people call them beads, other people call them bearings and they are also considered unies. The body size is dead on, same with the clevis but not sure about what type of blade he is using. You can use a 3/32" or a 1/8" size bead for that application. A size 4 blade isn't always the same depending on manufacturer and type. Example: A size 4 June Bug (Worth) is smaller than a size 4 June Bug (Lakeland) or a size 4 Trolling blade is smaller than a size 4 Fluted trolling blade. Also, you want to make sure you have at least a 3/8" - 1/2" of clearance from your last bead to keep the parts from binding. I have way too much time on my hands for making spinners!
 
chrisohm
Just to clarify, most commonly, hollow metal beads are used as bearings while solid metal beads are used for weight...and if you use a wire clevis it helps with the free spinning more than a folded clevis.
 
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Modest_Man
chrisohm said:
Are you speaking of the beads that are placed on either side of the clevis? These beads or bearings allow the blade to spin and reflect properly. You can use small or large beads depending on the size of spinner you are making.

The bead that is placed between the clevis and the body is what I'm referring too. From a physics stand point there would be no point in having a bearing (bead) above the clevis as there is no friction between the top of the clevis and anything, unless you just wanted to add weight but I think that it could impede blade movement.

GMR said:
I thought he did address that subject.... And thought he went smallest for less friction and easiest turning but maybe im emagining that.. now I need to read it again.

Do you want the smallest possible (like I have for my size ones) or should you get a few sizes larger for the larger #4 spinners?

chrisohm said:
Some people call them beads, other people call them bearings and they are also considered unies. The body size is dead on, same with the clevis but not sure about what type of blade he is using. You can use a 3/32" or a 1/8" size bead for that application. A size 4 blade isn't always the same depending on manufacturer and type. Example: A size 4 June Bug (Worth) is smaller than a size 4 June Bug (Lakeland) or a size 4 Trolling blade is smaller than a size 4 Fluted trolling blade. Also, you want to make sure you have at least a 3/8" - 1/2" of clearance from your last bead to keep the parts from binding. I have way too much time on my hands for making spinners!

The blades are .032" size #4 French blades. That's all the info I have. The 3/32" or 1/8" is exactly what I was looking for, thanks.

chrisohm said:
Just to clarify, most commonly, hollow metal beads are used as bearings while solid metal beads are used for weight...and if you use a wire clevis it helps with the free spinning more than a folded clevis.

By wire I'm assuming you mean a stirrup clevis instead of a folded clevis, which is what I have (stirrup). Why would you use a hollow bead/bearing over a solid one? I'm going for some heavier spinners to get it down deeper in the water column so I figured I'd use solid. I've also read that the hollow beads can get pinched, defeating the whole purpose of a bead/bearing.
 
chrisohm
Go for a solid 1/8" bead, that will help with the weight and get you down where you want to be. In addition, think about adding one to the end of the body. Make a few, that is the only way you will find out what setup is best to get to your desired depth. I favor the stirrup(wire) clevis over the folded, less friction and you can see that blade spin better! You have a point on the physics but you can go either way here. I would do it for weight since the bead will still allow the blade to spin. There is a forward weighted spinner that you can make to get deeper but I don't have an available picture to show you. I think those are more for trolling, something that I have no experience in yet...I have never had a problem on my smaller spinners or my larger spinners by doing so. I have seen examples made both ways and some don't even use a round bead at all, like the Blue Fox. If you got my PM you should check out that book if you really get into it! I hope this helps. If you have other questions, rickman makes some of his own spinners too and directed me to some great stuff. There are some other threads about this subject that could give you valuable information but I will help where I can!!
 
Coho Kid
Modest_Man said:
I'm trying to buy some components over the internet and without any visuals I can't figure out what size bearing to get and Jed Davis' book is silent on the subject.

I'll be using a #4 blade, size 2 clevis, and 9/32 or 3/8 ounce bodies.

My options are 1/8", 5/32", 3/16", 7/32", 1/4", 9/32", 5/16", 11/32". I'm guessing that's the diameter? I really have no idea.

As long as it's large enough to work as a bearing is the rest just for added weight?

Please, someone enlighten me. I need spinners.

I use exclusively 5/16" bearing beads because is the smallest bead made that fits my thick wire diameter. I use the other beads to add weight, but I'm not concerned with weight on my spinners because I side drift spinners anyway, not like the way everyone else fishes them.
 
chrisohm
Coho Kid said:
I use exclusively 5/16" bearing beads because is the smallest bead made that fits my thick wire diameter. I use the other beads to add weight, but I'm not concerned with weight on my spinners because I side drift spinners anyway, not like the way everyone else fishes them.

So what are you using for a body and how heavy are your spinners? Are you drifting them straight back from your weight or do they float at all? I am very curious to how you achieve this....
 
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