Fly rod flex/action - which one?

[Spydeyrch]

So, which fly rod action, or flex for those Orvis rods, do you prefer?

My first rod, 9' 5wt, was a med-fast action rod and it was good for my first rod. But then I got a shorter 7' 3wt slow-med action rod. I noticed that I get many more tailing loops with faster rods than I do with slower rods. I also love the slower action. When I was casting some cane rods a few months ago, they were ssslllllloooowwwwwww but man that felt AMAZING!!!!

So it got me thinking ..... I think that I prefer slower action rods. I know the whole "faster action rod = faster line speed = tighter loops = more distance", but to be honest most fish I go after are caught within the first 30 - 40 feet, and I can hit those distances just fine. I don't need to belt out 80 foot casts. So I think that I enjoy slower action rods in comparison to faster action rods. I don't get tailing loops as much with slower rods, and I just love the feel of it!!

What about you? What rod action do you prefer (or flex if you use orvis rods)? Why?

Take care y'all.

-Spydey

 

[OnTheFly]

Yeah, the cane and glass rods feel great for examples of slow action. You can really feel the rod load. I think they're tougher on the arm though. I like fast action all the way with maybe a double taper line. They seem to have more of a backbone and better for into the wind casting.

 

[hcole]

It depends on the kind of fishing I'm doing. I suppose if I was only fishing in perfect conditions I'd always gravitate towards a medium action rod but that's just not the case. For fishing the jetties I like a fast rod to deal with the wind but fishing dries for trout I use a Redington CT which is medium action. Fishing small water for small fish I have a 7'6" fiberglass 2wt and it's a real noodle but a lot of fun.

 

[pinkygonzales]

For what it's worth, those tailing loops can be fixed if you improve your form. The action of the rod may well accentuate your mistakes, but it is not the action itself that will determine whether or not the line will collapse upon itself.

I'm sure you've seen it said many times, in many ways, that action is purely a personal preference. What one person likes is simply what they like, not necessarily a "better" rod. With that said, you will often find that the higher the line weight, the faster the action, as you will likely be taking that #8 into situations that a #3 would not be suited for, and vice versa. Also, with a slower action rod, by design, you get more flexibility in the tip, so they are very common for smaller stream/smaller fish situations. You have a much better "feel" of a fish when its on, and it has the added benefit of protecting your leader/tippit, as the rod gives before the line will.

Just some general info there. I would say, work on that cast to fix your trailing loops either way, and then choose rod action based on what feels the best when you're casting.

 

[Spydeyrch]

For what it's worth, those tailing loops can be fixed if you improve your form. The action of the rod may well accentuate your mistakes, but it is not the action itself that will determine whether or not the line will collapse upon itself.

I'm sure you've seen it said many times, in many ways, that action is purely a personal preference. What one person likes is simply what they like, not necessarily a "better" rod. With that said, you will often find that the higher the line weight, the faster the action, as you will likely be taking that #8 into situations that a #3 would not be suited for, and vice versa. Also, with a slower action rod, by design, you get more flexibility in the tip, so they are very common for smaller stream/smaller fish situations. You have a much better "feel" of a fish when its on, and it has the added benefit of protecting your leader/tippit, as the rod gives before the line will.

Just some general info there. I would say, work on that cast to fix your trailing loops either way, and then choose rod action based on what feels the best when you're casting.

Thanks Pinky for the info. Yes, I am aware of how tailing loops are formed and why. There is only 1 rod that really I get them on though. I have cast dozens of rods from 3wt to 8wt, single hands, switch, cane, glass. And I have really only gotten it on this one rod that I own. I love the rod, and I know what I am doing that causes it. I just have to be more mindful of it when I use that rod. I have to make a mental effort to not do something or to do something so that I don't get tailing loops when using this one particular rod. Any other rod, I am fine with and hardly ever get tailing loops. I just found it interesting is all.

Regarding the action of a rod, yes, I agree that the lighter rod wt allows for better tippet protection. And I love those small wt rods on small streams!!

-Spydey