fishing line that does not tangle?

**oregon** · 07-03-2009 11:03 AM

I have a cheap $15 fishing rod/reel spinning combo that I got at Fisherman's. It is great. I have caught lots of fish, and I have always been happy with it except for the tangling of the line. It may just be me, or it may happen with all setups, but the biggest annoyance I face is the line twirling and clinging to itself when it is not taught. Then when I reel in, I have to hold my hand against the line to untangle or else the spool will get really tangled. This happens whenever it is not tight.

Do you guys also have this problem? Would better line/reel solve still do this?

I've always just been a casual fisherman, but I really enjoy it, so I'm considering upgrading; especially if I could get a setup that does not tangle.

**SNDSLGR** · 07-03-2009 11:10 AM

Fishing with spinners attatched to your mainline can do that but likely your line was put on your reel wrong. Take the reel into fishermans and ask them to put some Maxim Ultra-green line on it with the machine. It will only cost a few bucks and solve your problem.

**oregon** · 07-03-2009 11:17 AM

Is the maxim green the bright green line that the fish can see? I used to have a rod like that but it was really annoying because you always had to attach clear line to the end.

Also, would the maxima green get "staticy" and twist upon itself as it ages? I only fish 1-2 times a year, so my rod spends a lot of time just sitting between each use.

**halibuthitman** · 07-03-2009 11:34 AM

if you are using a spin reel, I would use trilene... maxima is great stuff but if you are usally out drownin worms just to relax once in a while trilene will treat u better Disclaimer: ok guys dont thrash me, im not dissing the max, it can just be a little tough on a guy out of a spin caster, sometimes the cheaper line is nicer off the old spin rod.

**1aB** · 07-03-2009 11:39 AM

Even after 50 years of throwing a spinning reel, still no simple solution to the problem of line tangles. But, I've noticed that the following can help:
1. Larger diameter reel spools
2. Lighter line
3. Limp mono like Trilene XL
4. Heavier sinkers & lures - to assist keeping line tight on the retrieve
5. Retrieve technique - avoid bouncing rod which can create loose line slack
6. Reels that wind line evenly on the spool top to bottom
7. Per "SNDSLGR" machine winding new line fill ups
8. Longer rods with limber tips & more guides to buffer slack

Of course theres usually a trade off involved, for example larger diameter reel spools usually mean a bigger heavier reel, and lighter limper lines might be more prone to breakoffs. I think it might be time for a rod a reel upgrade as a starting point.

edit: unless you limit yourself to certain species/water conditions, you'll probably be more comfortable with several outfits. For example, a balanced stocker trout dunking outfit - 2500 reel with 6# test top shot over backing, 7' light rod, - might manage for light bass, catfish, or surf perch duty, but would probably be inadequate for more demanding river or jetty species & conditions. Right now, I've got 1500, 2000, 2500, 4000, 4500, & 8500 spinning outfits each with a specific purpose.

In other words, too heavy line on a too small reel, for example 10# test on a 1500 reel, will probably have handling problems.

**Kodiak** · 07-03-2009 12:31 PM

Originally Posted by halibuthitman

if you are using a spin reel, I would use trilene... maxima is great stuff but if you are usally out drownin worms just to relax once in a while trilene will treat u better Disclaimer: ok guys dont thrash me, im not dissing the max, it can just be a little tough on a guy out of a spin caster, sometimes the cheaper line is nicer off the old spin rod.

I use 8-12 Max UG on my spinning reels never have problems. The only time it represents any kind of issue is when I overfill the spool!

**kornphlake** · 07-03-2009 01:06 PM

I've got the same problems with an older Shakespeare spinning reel and 4# Trilene XL, I've been fishing worms and spinners about 50/50 but seem to get tangles that force me to cut 20-30 yards every other time I go out fishing. I was careful to wind the spool so that the line wasn't twisting and I always use a swivel to minimize the amount of twisting a spinner may do. Still it's become pretty frustrating to get all set for fishing, make a couple casts then spend another 10 minutes cutting the tangled line and re-tying the tackle.

Is it just the nature of a spinning reel that the line gets twisted? Aside from properly winding the spool and using a swivel is there anything else that can be done to minimize twisting aside from buying a new reel?

**halibuthitman** · 07-03-2009 01:15 PM

I agree with kodiak, I never have problems, anymore... but I also use mustad swivels, trilene and always cast upstream and rarely let it swing through the tailout becoming very tight, and I NEVER troll with my mono EVER...

**Kodiak** · 07-03-2009 02:03 PM

Originally Posted by halibuthitman

I agree with kodiak, I never have problems, anymore... but I also use mustad swivels, trilene and always cast upstream and rarely let it swing through the tailout becoming very tight, and I NEVER troll with my mono EVER...

HE HEHE HE HEE HE....I NEVER use braid. I run mono on everything. Spinners, drifting, plunking, trolling. It has superior performance when trolling spinners, herring, or light line for low water steelies and coho. About the only thing braid might have an advantage is bobber fishing, but that only if I don't have a dry fly patch on my person.

**halibuthitman** · 07-03-2009 02:51 PM

yep, wouldn't know cause I would never be using anything but yarn with a flyrod in low water steelhead, and I don't pull plugs or spinners.. so you got me there.... but for a sometimes fisherman I would recommend the lowest maintanance line with the least worries.. and I have seen hundreds of yards of maxima cut off spinreels cause the owners couldn't deal with it.

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